This is a big overly long description of how I switched from OEM to Bilstein HD shocks. I did not have the special "CVx Shock Tools" but if you read on, you will see that they wouldn't have been much help anyway!!

A much shorter shock install page (and pictures of the CVx Shock Tools) is located on another website.

Here are the tools I used for removal and installation:

  • ~10" Vise-Grips® tool (it is always worth the extra few bucks to get genuine Vise-Grips®)

  • 9/16" and 17mm ratcheting wrenches (GearWrench® is the best, but it's not necessary for this application)

  • Metric and standard socket wrenches (may need deep-well to get bottom rear OEM bolts off)

  • Dremel® tool and grinding bit (the grinding bit must be capable of grinding a hardened-steel shock shaft)

  • 5mm hex tool to install Bilsteins (this is where the CVx Shock Tool comes in handy. I didn't mind drilling holes in my trunk so I just used one of these on a 3/8" ratchet)

  • Air chisel (a small, friendly service station will let you use theirs for little or no charge.. see below)

  • Utility knife to cut shock boot

Some helpful tips:

It is a good idea to soak all bolts with penetrating lubricant at least 24 hours before starting this project. It might not work miracles, but it's better than nothing!!

There are NO special instructions for rear air suspension vehicles. The only precautions you have to take with air springs are the usual: Turn off the Air Suspension switch in the trunk prior to jacking up the vehicle. That's it!

You do not need the CVx Shock Tools. In my case, they wouldn't have helped at all with OEM shock removal. Want proof? Here's a pic of one of my front shocks where the little tab (the one that the shock tools grab onto) sheared right off. Would the CVx Shock Tools have prevented that? I doubt it. My friend and I ended up driving the car to a local service station that was fortunately still open on a late Saturday afternoon. We used the shop's air chisel to hack the top nuts right off the shocks (IMPORTANT: Make sure the nut is completely sheared off before leaving the service station or you will be scratching your head trying to figure out how to get the nut off the rest of the way). At first I was nervous about driving back to my friend's house with the nuts chiseled off, but then I realized that the shock was still bolted in at the bottom and was captured by the geometry of the front suspension. Plus he only lived about 2 miles away, so I wasn't going to do any stunt driving.
The only reason I didn't shear off the rear shock tab is because I gave up on it. Once I got the shock out, though, I could see how close it was to being sheared off.
I'm not saying the CVx Shock Tools are bad, I'm just saying it is very possible to do the job without them. Your mileage may vary.

I bought my shocks from www.shox.com for $300 including s/h, I have heard that copcars.net is also a good source for Bilstein HD's. You need P/N's B46-1495 (front) and B46-1496 (rear).

 

Removing the rear OEM shocks:
(remember, this is how my friend and I did it. Your results may vary)

1. Put the car on jackstand(s) and remove the rear wheel (do the usual parking brake, air suspension off, wheels chocked).

2. Remove the bottom shock bolt (it should come off easily, but this is where you may need the deep-socket wrench).

3. Cut the black plastic dust boot off of the shock, as much as you can, to expose the shiny steel shaft.

4. Use your Dremel® to grind a nice flat spot on the shaft (the flat spot must be deep enough so that a Vise-Grips® can clamp on without slipping). Pic 1 - Pic 2

5. Place the 9/16" GearWrench® over the top shock nut, clamp the Vise-Grips® onto the flat spot on the shaft, and proceed to loosen the top shock nut. Note: If the Vise-Grips® doesn't want to stay clamped on the shaft, try unclamping it and flipping it 180° so the fixed jaw gets a better grip.

6. Your rear shock should be free and you can proceed to install the new shock. If it's not, you'll have to improvise! Sorry!

Installing the rear Bilstein HD's:

7. Without the CVx Shock Tools, my only option was to drill a hole in my trunk floor so I could get the 5mm hex extension onto the top of the Bilstein's. It is a good idea to silicone and plug the holes once the project is done.

Where I drilled my holes: Left side 1 • Left side 2 • Right side 1 • Right side 2

View down one of the access holes • One of the holes, plugged

8. Install the supplied dust boot, washer, and bushing. Put the top threads through the mounting hole and twist the shock until the bottom bolt lines up to the axle. Attach the bottom bolt with the nut (and washer) but do not tighten it yet.

9. Go back up to the top and put on the other bushing, washer, and 17mm nut. Put the 17mm GearWrench® over the nut before your partner (who should be in the trunk by now) sticks the hex tool through the trunk hole and onto the shock shaft. Either one of you can ratchet the nut down the threads, but it will go faster if he does it (you have a limited angle of movement). Don't overtighten the nut or you will ruin your bushings. Tighten the nut until the top bushing just starts to distort (bulge out).

10. Tighten the bottom nut (you may have to compress or expand the shock to line it up correctly with the axle hole).

11. Put the wheel back on and you are ready to do the other side!

Removing the front OEM shocks:

1. Good advice: Unless you are driving a very new Vic, the top shock nuts are going to be rusted on. You can't use the Vise-Grip® technique up front so just save yourself the trouble and use an air chisel to hack the nuts off of the shaft (sounds like it hurts, right guys?).

2. When you get back from chiseling off the top nuts, jack-stand the car again. Get the car up as high as you can, because you need to pull the shock down through the hole in the contol arm. I think we had about 12-14" between the concrete & control arm and just barely got the shocks out. (HINT: Once the car is on jackstands, you can use the jack to squeeze the control arm up to get even more clearance)

3. Unbolt the two bottom nuts holding the shock onto the control arm, and pull the shock out!! Yes it is that easy! Make sure you get all the rubber bushings out of the shock mounts, they have a tendency to stick.

Installing the front Bilstein HD's:

4. Install your supplied washer and bushing (no dust boot is supplied, or necessary for that matter), and feed that sucker up through the control arm. Do I even have to finish this procedure? haha...

5. Follow the same procedure as the rear, using the GearWrench®/hex tool method to attach the top nut.

6. You may have to finagle to line up the bottom nuts, but tighten them down and you are good to go. You're welcome, and enjoy.

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